I like Egypt.
The three most impactful things I take from my short visit in Egypt are: (1) the genuine Egyptian smiles, friendliness, and sense of community (even in Cairo); (2) infectious optimism; and (3) the triumph of ancient Egyptians’ mind over matter in building Karnak and the Great Pyramids. Oh yes, before I forget, tipping 1 Egyptian pounds when using the bathroom is customary. In fact, tipping between 1 to 5 Egyptian pounds is apparently customary for anyone that does you a favor. Our tour guide was constantly handing out tips to museum guards, the ice cream man, and those clearing traffic to allow our mini-bus through.
Cairo. Being stuck in 1.5 hours of traffic on a 250 feet bridge is frustrating, but navigating through probably the most congested streets in the world yields a special treat: experiencing an Egyptian sense of community where everyone becomes a traffic police in directing the flow of cars. Our car was stuck in a narrow street in Islamic Cairo in a 10 car pileup going every which direction when a plump and unfortunate looking woman dressed in blazing orange cloth came to give her hand in untying the traffic knot. Within 1 minute of her effort, she was trapped in a perfect triangle formed by the sides of three cars including ours. She threw her hands in the air and certainly shouted Arabic profanities as the other drivers looked on and laughed! This was a charming and unforgettable experience! The Cairo Museum is literally overflowing with ancient treasures and is a definite must-see.
Islamic Cairo provides a fascinating glimpse into Egypt’s Muslim community. The streets are cozy and rich with Islamic history. The Al Azhar mosque, founded in 970, is touted as the second oldest educational institution in the world. The mosque also serves as Egypt’s religious authority. Enter the mosque and explore the large prayer rooms and beautiful inner white marble courtyard. The Khan al-Khalili bazaar is just a quick walk over. Smaller mosques lined with beautiful Egyptian carpets and brass lamps hanging from above make this walk more than just an outdoor mall. While exploring the smaller alleys, I befriended a few people and bargained over delicately crafted wooden boxes with Islamic art inlays. Although the alleys are dusty, unpaved, and littered with trash, I felt safe at all times because residents were constantly waving, smiling, and showing what I think is the best side of Egypt!
Gingerly nestled within Old Cairo, Coptic Cairo boasts of the Roman Towers, a Mosque, the Ben Ezra Synagogue (where the pharoh’s daughter found Moses in the reeds and where Mary drew water to bathe baby Jesus), and seven Churches (including the Hanging Church and St. Sergius or Abu Serga built over a cave where Joseph, Mary and baby Jesus sought shelter after fleeing to Egpyt from King Herod of Judea’s wrath).
Luxor. With nearly 3000 years of history and over 1500 years of constant additions, the Temples of Karnak are an awesome sight. The Great Hypostyle Hall had a roof which could contain both Rome’s St. Peter’s and London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral propped up with over 134 sky bound papyrus stone pillars. Ancient Egyptians believed the papyrus surrounded a mound of earth in which life was first created. Apparently the Nile waters used to flood this hall with several feet of water with the coming of the summer floods. I suggest skipping the 9 hour overnight train for the hour flight between Cairo and Luxor. The double passenger sleeper train we took spanned the length of my leg. Early 90’s overnight sleeper trains in China and Indian trains exude luxurious qualities in contrast to the Egyptian train.
Valley of the Kings is home to King Tut’s tomb. No visit is complete without walking into the long tomb corridors lined with hieroglyphics, burial chambers, and other rooms in which post-life offerings were kept.
Valley of the Queens is home to Nefertari and at least 74 other tombs.
A sunset stroll within Luxor Temple is also an unforgettable experience as you take in the beautiful carvings, colonnades, and other ancient Egyptian art.
Alexandria. A 3 hour one-way drive to Alexandria from Cairo is somewhat worth the views of the Mediterranean, Catacombs of Kom ash-Shuqqafa, Roman amphitheater (Kom Al-Dikka). This is the only place on earth where Greco-Roman-Egyptian cultures are intertwined as one and evident throughout the city's ancient sites.
